The New Yorker on Extreme Beer

The New Yorker has a piece up on extreme brewing. Sifting through the Sam Calagione hagiography, there are a few interesting things to share:

• DFH now has a giant barrel made of palo santo, an intriguing wood "so heavy that it sank in water, so hard and oily that it was sometimes made into ball bearings or self-lubricating bushings... smelled as sweet as sandalwood and was said to impart its fragrance to food and drink."
• A few choice quotes from beer historian Maureen Ogle, including this on craft brewers preaching to the converted: “When I talk to people like Sam, I’m constantly amazed at how persuaded they are that everyone drinks craft beer... If that’s true, why are they still sitting at four per cent?”
• Garrett Oliver, the evangelist of session beers: “When a brewer says, ‘This has more hops in it than anything you’ve had in your life—are you man enough to drink it?,’ it’s sort of like a chef saying, ‘This stew has more salt in it than anything you’ve ever had—are you man enough to eat it?’ ”
• A pun-tastic sample lyric from Calagione's band The Pain Relievaz: “You’re the barley virgin that my malt mill will deflour”
• And the head brewer of Orval stirring the pot: “Tell them that the brewer at Orval likes Budweiser!”

If that has whet your appetite, head over to The New Yorker and read the rest.